Upwell, St Peter, Norfolk

Eye-to-Eye with Angels

Having endured a bumpy ride traversing the fens across rural Cambridgeshire, it came as a relief to arrive at Upwell Church. The clouds glowered in the distance, but the sun was shining and it was warm - but not as warm as the lovely welcome we received upon arrival within the church. There was a Christening due to take place in an hour, but the Priest informed my partner and I that we were welcome to look around in the meantime. Whilst Lynn sat chatting to the friendly church folk, I went a-roving with my camera. I had visited here for the first time in the company of ecclesiologist, John Vigar, and historian/photographer, Paul Harley, last year. As is so often the case, a second visit reveals things in a different light and I was much happier with my photographs this time around.

Upwell has handsome Angel Roofs in the nave and aisles dating to the 1400s. However, it also has some nineteenth century galleries that now enable us to get up close with the some of the angels in the aisles - a prospect that allows a pleasing perspective…

Whilst, perhaps, a visit to see Saint Apollonia at Barton Turf might have been more fitting, being face-to-face with these delightful angels did take my mind of the nagging toothache I am currently enduring for a while (St Apollonia being patron saint of dentists and those suffering with dental and oral afflictions).

Meanwhile, back on terra firma, I smiled at the late medieval lectern - rather more cockerel than ‘eagle’, with a cock’s-comb on top of its head. Forged during the 1400s, although it resembles brass it is actually ‘latten’, an alloy of copper and zinc. I do like the description of it in Mortlock & Roberts, ‘The Guide to Norfolk Churches’, where Charles Roberts delights in its, ‘lovely buttery texture and patina which brass assumes with great age’ (maybe I will too, in time!). Incidentally, I attribute this passage to Charles following a conversation with a friend of mine who knew him and exclaimed, ‘That’s Charles!’ when I read the more florid lines from their ‘Guide’.

Another intriguing bird can be found on the eastern end of the nave floor near the gargantuan pulpit. With just its head remaining intact, at first I thought it to be an Ibis, but Simon Knott identifies it as a Crane. I’m not going to argue, but it is intriguing, and I cannot recall ever seeing anything like this during my years of exploring churches [Postscript: John Vigar has subsequently informed me that he believes it to be an Ostrich - possibly, associated with the Earls of Leicester’s heraldic bird.]

Entering the large chancel, there are two medieval brasses mounted on the western end of the north and south walls. My eyes were drawn to the exquisite architectural detail depicted on the ‘border’ of the one on the north wall - an exuberant profusion of quatrefoils, mouchettes, spandrels and crockets, topped by ornate corner-towers and crenellations.

There is much to discover at this wonderful church - and, once again, I commend the warm welcome with which we were received.

Church Near You Website - Upwell

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